| Type de document : | Ouvrage |
| Titre : | Fashion in Late Ottoman Istanbul: Photography and Identity in a Global City |
| Auteurs : | Nancy MICKLEWRIGHT |
| Editeur : | London : BLOOMSBURY, 2026 |
| Collection : | Dress cultures |
| Langues | Anglais |
| Format : | Online resource. 256 p. / ill.. |
| Présentation : | ill.. |
| ISBN/ISSN/EAN : | 978-1-350-45488-0 |
| Mots-clés : |
Géographique ISTANBUL ; TURQUIENom Commun 18EME SIECLE ; 19EME SIECLE ; ECONOMIE ; FEMME ; HISTOIRE ; HISTOIRE DE LA MODE ; PHOTOGRAPHIE |
| En ligne : | https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350454880?locatt=label:secondary_bloomsburyFashionCentral |
| Résumé : | Dress in late Ottoman Istanbul presents a new contribution to the decentering of fashion history by focusing on the dress and women of Istanbul, the capital of an empire and an international trading center with a population comprised of multiple ethnicities, races and religions. Over the course of the long nineteenth century, the women of Istanbul gradually transformed their appearance, adopting European dress and new modes of self-fashioning, including photographs. Drawing on a close examination of surviving garments, many of which have never been seen in publications, paintings, photographs, and writing by Ottoman and foreign women, this project reconstructs a complex fashion history, and the dramatic changes that took place in women's lives in this period. Directed at students and specialists across a range of fields, including fashion history, Ottoman studies, women's and gender history, visual culture and photography history, Dress in late Ottoman Istanbul provides a fascinating insight into women's histories, literature and dress practices in the rapidly changing Istanbul. |
| Note de contenu : | Acknowledgements -- Chapter 1: Introduction -- Why this book -- Imaging dress -- Impact of photography -- Critical use of sources -- Historic context -- Istanbul as a global city -- Social structure and Intercommunal relations -- Book organization -- Chapter 2: Picturing Fashion and Understanding Dress: The Sources -- Visual Sources before photography -- Photography and fashion -- Written Sources -- Ottoman women's dress in museum collections -- Chapter 3: Women's Dress before Photography -- Elite women's dress in 18th century Istanbul: Tailoring and construction -- Elite women's dress in 18th century Istanbul: written and visual sources -- Elite women's dress in 18th century Istanbul: the garments -- Dress in the first decades of the 19th century: written and visual sources -- Dress in the first decades of the 19th century: the garments -- Fashion change, outside influences in this period -- Chapter 4: The Fashionable Lady: The Ottoman Consumer and the Fashion Economy in Istanbul -- Hanimefendi: the Ottoman consumer -- Interaction with European women -- The Garments -- Fashion Media -- New sales and production -- Acceleration of change: the dress -- Chapter 5: Acceleration of Change: the (wedding) dress -- Working with historic photographs: the bindalli example -- The first dress: bindalli dresses -- Bindalli embroidery -- The white wedding dress -- Wedding photography -- Ottoman weddings -- Chapter 6: Dressing for Work: Enslaved Women and Women at work -- Enslaved women in the Ottoman context -- Women enter the public working world -- Contemporary tensions around women in public -- Fashion of the non-elite: finding the evidence -- Snapshots and other photos -- The clothing -- Chapter 7: Fashion Influencers: Royal and Elite Women -- Women of the court and court circles -- Court women and photography -- Their dresses -- Shopping -- As fashion influencers -- Afterword: The Afterlife of Ottoman Costume -- Dispersal of court wardrobes -- Dress in the first decade of the Turkish Republic -- The bindalli dress as folk costume and later -- The Magnificent Century and 21st century wedding dresses -- Glossary -- Bibliography -- Index. |
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